Pesto, the “Green Gold” of Genoa
KLM will expand its network this summer with 7 new
destinations, including Genoa. The city where the smell of fresh basil
greets you on arrival. In the world capital of pesto, no pasta dish is
served without this crushed sauce and a consortium stringently monitors
the quality of this “green gold”. We will be flying there from Schiphol
Airport as of 22 April.
Christopher Columbus could smell from the aroma of fresh basil that
his ship was nearing the Port of Genoa. After months of surviving on
ship’s biscuit, fresh vegetables were a meal fit for the gods for
medieval seafarers.
Even after half a millennium, pesto remains
inextricably linked to Italy’s largest port. Since serving as Europe’s
cultural capital in 2014, Genoa
has put paid to its dark and grisly image. Nowadays, the city boasts a
raw beauty that is difficult to quantify: you have to experience – and
more particularly taste – it for yourself. Welcome to Genoa, welcome to
the world of pesto genovese.
Genuine pesto genovese does not come from a factory, but is crushed by hand
"The maze of winding streets and stairway alleys look like one of Escher’s optical illusions"
The old harbor: the homecoming kitchen
The story of Genoa’s most important export product starts at the old
harbour, where the smells of fish and basil have been struggling to win
the upper hand for centuries. Nowadays, Porto Antico is a modern harbour
area with a broad boulevard and plenty of attractions – a place for
young and old to enjoy a day off. It’s easy to imagine how the seafarers
felt when greeted by all the fresh vegetables and herbs after being at
sea for months on end.
For this reason, the cuisine of Liguria – the region in which Genoa serves as the capital – earned the following nickname: “la cucina del ritorno”,
or the homecoming kitchen. At sidewalk cafés, Italian families enjoy
“their” pesto genovese throughout the day; elsewhere in the harbour the
smell of fresh fish wins the upper hand over fresh pesto. Enough
parading: from the harbour, you can stroll right into the mediaeval
labyrinth.
"At Doge’s Palace, 100 participants compete for the title of ‘world champion pesto maker"
World champion pesto maker
It’s easy to lose your sense of direction in Europe’s biggest
mediaeval city centre. The city backs up onto the surrounding hillside,
with a maze of winding streets and stairway alleys making it look much
like one of the Dutch artist Escher’s optical illusions. Luckily, the
Genoese are friendly and patient when asked for directions – in Italian
of course.
Through the labyrinthine street pattern, you eventually find yourself
at the monumental Piazza Matteotti, with the eye-catching Doge’s
Palace. This venue hosts an event that proves beyond doubt that
preparing the perfect pesto is an unrivalled art form in itself. Every
two years, 100 contestants from around the globe pit their skills
against one another to earn the prestigious title of “world champion
pesto maker”. In 2014, 86-year-old Alfonsina Trucco emerged victorious
with her marble mortar and wooden pestle. The next world championships
are scheduled for 2016.
The best pesto is made in a marble mortar using a wooden pestle (photo: Stefano Goldberg)
"Food processors are considered blasphemous in this Mecca for pesto lovers"
Pesto Mecca Maxelâ
Maxelâ – a butchery and restaurant rolled into one – is one of the
best places to taste pesto. From behind the stone-arched bar, the owner
Cristina shares the secret of her pesto genovese. The traditional pesto
is made from fresh basil leaves grown in the Genoese neighbourhood of
Pra, extra virgin olive oil from Liguria, Italian pine nuts, fresh
garlic from the Arroscia Valley, coarse sea salt from Naples, pecorino
sheep’s cheese from Sardinia and parmesan cheese from the Province of
Parma.
With pride, the lively Italian explains how the circular movement
used to crush the basil leaves is essential to create the perfect
texture. After all, the name “pesto” comes from “pestare”, the
Italian word for “crush”. A food processor or blender would be
considered blasphemous in this Mecca for pesto lovers – genuine pesto is
crushed by hand. The traditional recipe is certified and compliance is
monitored by a bona fide consortium: Il Consorzio del Pesto Genovese. The green gold should definitely not be mistaken for inferior factory made pesto.
Backed up against the hills, Genoa is a genuine calf-biter (photo: Stefano Goldberg)
Bright red cable cars
According to Cristina, the best olive oil for pesto genovese comes
from the hills of Liguria. Time to take a ride with the funicular. Three
bright red cable cars, to be found at various locations in Genoa, can
take you in a few bumpy minutes to the higher areas and hilltops. From
the panoramic terrace of Righi station, Genoa lies literally at your
feet. From up here, you look down upon “la Superba” or “the Proud
one”, as the port has been known for centuries. The hills are home to
olive trees and basil plants… and of the “beautiful women of the hills”
from mediaeval times. Back then, Genoese women waited there for their
loved ones. Once the long-awaited ships showed themselves on the
horizon, the lady folk quickly filled their baskets with basil to spoil
the returning seafarers with freshly made pesto. But as legend has it,
the souls of the women whose men never returned still circle these
hills…
Take the funicular to one of the hilltops and “la Superba” lies at your feet (photo: Stefano Goldberg)
Practical information
- Effective 22 April, Genoa will become KLM’s 7th Italian destination to be served directly. The daily flights are operated using Embraer 190 equipment.
- The next Genoa Pesto World Championship will be held in 2018.
- Maxelâ Ristorante Macelleria, Via San Luca 2.
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